Monday, November 3, 2014

Networking and Wi-Fi - Getting Through the Wall

Introduction

Wired LAN (local area network) systems can seem confusing enough.  Add WiFi (radio broadcast) to your LAN, and things can get even more complicated.

Wired LAN systems are the most reliable, but the most difficult to install in an existing building because of all the holes you need to poke into the walls (etc.) to get all the wires pulled to different locations.

WiFi systems avoid the need to connect everything with wires, and allow you to move about freely within your network broadcast range, but they can be complicated to safely install, and they are susceptible to radio-frequency (RF) interference, which makes them less reliable.

Radio interference occurs when a device in range of your network system is operating at or near the same frequency as your WiFi router band(s).  They have thought this through.  Interference is generally not common.  But many devices that are not primarily designed to emanate radio-frequencies can do so, and in an intermittent fashion, which can cause occasional and random drop-outs in your WiFi Network.  Tracking these problems down can be very difficult.

Good Placement of your WiFi Router can help a lot to prevent the most common forms of signal interference.  Placing it up high on a wall or bookcase for example, as well as away from any metal objects and/or radio frequency producing devices is a really good idea.

There have been volumes of information written about WiFi Network Security, so this is not the place to go into that in depth.  Suffice it to say though, that no matter what kind of (recent) WiFi security protocol you use, there will always be potential for your system to be compromised.  About the only thing you have going for you is the sheer popularity and quantity of WiFi networks.  But the possibility of your WiFi network being cracked is only limited to how much you trust who is in range of your system (your neighbors, who is on the street, etc.).  Public WiFi networks with pass-phrases are only as secure as who is using them, so again, there is a trust issue going on here.  WPA2-PSK and 802.11n are the most common recent security network protocol  tools used today.

The latest (Jan-2014) and greatest WiFi security protocol is 802.11ac, but you will need to replace all your WiFi Network Broadcast devices (routers, repeaters, etc.) to take full advantage of this new protocol.  Using updated adapters would be best too.  These new routers should be backwards compatible with current (b/g/n class) adapters.  A Network Adapter is the equipment used to connect your device (notebook or tablet PC, etc.) to your WiFi broadcast router.

Routers are primarily a sending unit, while Adapters are primarily a receiving unit.  The communication actually goes both ways however.

Following are a few suggestions and tips for using either Wired or WiFi.

Sometimes the best solution can be a combination of the two.

Passing Wires Through a Wall

Here are a few suggested items for making a quick, yet neat, pass-through in a standard wallboard wall.  By using the pop-in box or bracket, it is easy to install a blank cover-plate if the wires are later not needed and removed.

A pop-in box or bracket can be really convenient and easy to install.  Just be sure that you do not damage any existing wiring or plumbing when you cut the hole.

Most of these products can be purchased in quantities from 1 to 10.

The boxes and cover-plates come in 1-gang and 2-gang options.  For example, a single-gang box is like a single wall switch, a double-gang box is like a double wall switch.

Sometimes you can get far better WiFi coverage if you pass a wire through a wall into another room or hallway to get closer to a more central (and higher) location, that could also be more free of possible RF interference.

Low Voltage Mounting Bracket
These make for an easy access to get through walls, between two rooms or into a hallway for example.  A cable pass plate can be used, there are may choices.  A blank cover-plate can be used as well.  these come in a variety of styles.  Some additional searching is easy to do.

Recessed Cable Wall Plate
This clever example can be mounted either way.  There are many other options.

Here is a site dedicated to various home connectivity products:
My Cable Mart
That link is a list of various cover-plates and brackets, to give you an idea of what is available.

Choose a WiFi Router

The best way to choose a router is to read some reviews, or choose what is popular at on-line shopping sites.

Extending your WiFi Network range can be fairly simple to do.  Some terms you may run into for that are:

A WiFi range extender and/or repeater that also includes a network bridge is a device that will extend your current WiFi network range of reception, plus give you a LAN port to plug a cable into.  So in a way, the best of both worlds.  (You are still mostly dependent on the WiFi signal however.)

The most important part of a WiFi system is the antenna.  A good antenna system will help a lot with both reliability and range.
What is the best WiFi antenna for me?
That is a really comprehensive article on the subject.  Some additional searching may be helpful.

Router

Here is an example of a popular 300 Mbps single-band (2.4 GHz) router:
TP-LINK TL-WR841N ... mfg. page
This device includes:

  • Wireless network speeds up to 300 Mbps (mega-bits per second)
    • This provides adequate data transfer to watch streaming HD movies for example, from a site like Netflix... or to make VoIP (telephone) calls over the Internet (including webcam calls like Skype).
  • WPA2-PSK Security
    • This is the most common of the current security protocols, and in general is still very effective.
  • Four 10/100 Auto-Sensing LAN Ports
    • For easy wired networking.
  • One WAN Port
    • For your Internet connectivity.  (This port connects to the incoming signal from your ISP or Internet Service Provider).
  • Wi-Fi On/Off Button
    • This feature is really handy if you want to temporarily turn off your WiFi.
  • Power On/Off Button
    • This can make it a lot easier to easily re-boot the router, it there is a connectivity problem, etc.
  • WPS Connect Button
    • WPS, "WiFi Protected Setup", is a convenient connectivity feature that allows the connection of devices to your network by pressing a button, as opposed to entering in a pass-phrase.


Range Extender

Here is a relatively simple device that will allow you to easily extend your network broadcast range:
TP-LINK TL-WA850RE ... mfg. page
Wi-Fi Range Extender, Repeater
This device includes:

  • 300 Mbps Range Extender (2.4 GHz band).
    • Suitable for "High-Bandwidth" applications (video calling, HD Streaming, etc.).
  • Compatible with other 802.11n/g/b wireless devices.
    • Applies to most currently used devices.
  • WPA2-PSK security encryption is supported.
    • Good security protocols.
  • WPS Connectivity.
    • Easy push-button connectivity.
  • RJ-45 Ethernet Cable Jack (see note below).
    • Allows this device to be used as an Ethernet Bridge.
  • Smart Signal Indicator Light.
    • A signal strength indicator, to assist in locating the device, and monitoring performance.


Dual-Band vs. Single-Band

My experience so far with Dual-Band Routers is that they are not worth the trouble.  Most folks are confused by the whole idea, and though the 5 GHz band is supposed to be faster and have greater range, I've not really see that (especially on the extended range).  I suppose it depends on the router though.  Especially in terms of broadcast power for that particular device.

However... A major benefit of a simultaneous Dual-Band system (which is the common configuration on the market today) is the separation of the bands, and data transfer.  Basically, you are getting two WiFi routers in one, which is the biggest benefit of this system.

There are many (mostly older) devices that only operate in the (slower) 2.4 GHz range.  (Higher Frequencies are capable of carrying more information, faster.)  The 5 GHz range is better suited for watching HD Movies (like Netflix), Audio+Video Calls (like Skype), Gaming, and large data transfers.

As far as I know, there is no way to use a Concurrent WiFi Adapter (they don't exist?), and receive both bands at the same time on a device (like a PC).  i.e. On the receiving end you get one or the other, not both.  So those big numbers you see in ads for Mbps are the combined output of the router, which is not a bad thing.

If you want to get higher throughput (above 300 Mbps) in either band however, be prepared to get your wallet out, these routers don't come real cheap!

The speed vs band designation is generally identified as follows:

  • N150 = 150 Mbps (typically 2.4 GHz)
  • N300 = 300 Mbps (typically 2.4 GHz)
  • N600 = 300 + 300 Mbps (2.4 GHz / 5 GHz respectively)
  • N900 = 450 + 450 Mbps (2.4 GHz / 5 GHz respectively)
  • N1200 = 300 + 900 Mbps (2.4 GHz / 5 GHz respectively)
Other variations can apply.  Be sure to read the specifications to be sure that you understand what it is that you are actually supposed to be getting for each band.

This support article by Netgear does a really good job answering the question:
What does the N150/N300/N600/N750/N900 mean?
Of course they use their products to illustrate the differences, but that is OK.  Personally, I find their products to generally be a very good choice.

Notes:

Ethernet Cable Connector

RJ-45 vs. 8P8C
8P8C (8 position 8 contact) is technically the correct term for the Ethernet Cable Connector that is most commonly used today.  Use of the term "RJ-45 Ethernet Cable" is so pervasive in the industry however that most folks (including manufacturers) will use it in discussions, and even in specification lists!  If you want to truly test someone's knowledge about networking however, you can try and throw this term / difference out there.

Setting the DHCP Server

The DHCP Server setting should be turned on if you only have one router, or on the very 1st router (connected by the WAN Port to your Internet Source) in a series of routers.  In other-words, if you connect a series of routers together to expand your network (such as adding WiFi points via Wired LAN or Booster connections), the 1st router is a DHCP Server, and the rest of them are not.  (Disable the DHCP function of the following router(s) and set them to obtain an IP address dynamically.)

Additional Resources

Google: WiFi Range Extender

Google: Add a Wireless Access Point

Wi-Fi Booster Review - Top 10 Reviews
Some notable examples... mostly dual-band:
  • ZyXEL WAP3205 V2 - $40
    • Mfg. Page
    • It is not clear if this is a dual-band system (probably not), but they make it sound like it could be very easy to set up (though actual user reviews are contrary.)
    • It is a "best value" deal.
  • Netgear AC1200 EX6200 - $110

    • Uses the newest 802.11ac wireless networking standard.

    • Blazing Speed (up to 1200 Mbps total output).
      • Only with full dual-band connectivity, otherwise they are all the same, around 300 Mbps on the 2.4 GHz band.
    • Dual-Band (2.4 / 5 GHz)
    • Excellent additional features (such as USB 3.0 and 5 Gigabit LAN Ports).
  • Also worth a look:
  • Netgear AC750 EX6100 - $90
  • Belkin F9K1106 - $70

===

Wednesday, September 3, 2014

Delete Unwanted Autofill Data - Web Browser

"How do I delete Unwanted Auto-Fill Information from the input box in my Web Browser?"

For example: You mistype your User ID when logging into your e-mail account on-line.  This is a pretty common issue.  Everyone does it at some point.

A web search will usually get you to the information you need.  Here are a few examples:


For Firefox See:


For the Google Chrome Browser See:


Another way to do this, and give your (MS Windows) system a bit of a boost is to run a utility like CCleaner.  You will find information about that on my "a58Tech" Web, under Maintenance and Utility Software.

:-)

Transfer Camera Images From Your Mobile Phone

"How do I transfer Camera Images from my Phone?"

The easiest way to handle that is to connect your phone to your PC using a data cable (some cables are "charge only", and unless they are labeled so, there is no way to tell by looking at them).

Most phones use a "Micro B" type USB connector.  Data cables for these are easily available at places like Staples, Target, Radio Shack, etc.  Take your phone with you if you need to get a cable, and any good sales person will be able to help you.

Connect your phone to your PC with the cable.  It probably needs to be "ON" to work, but may be not.

If your phone is on, (as I usually do), check the display after making the connection.  Sometimes you get a prompt asking what kind of connection you want.  Make the choice that allows data transfer.

When the proper connection is made, the phone will look like a flash (thumb) drive to your PC.

Open your File Manager utility.  In MS Windows it is "Windows Explorer".  Mac OS, Linux, etc., all have something similar.

Navigate to the folder (location / directory) with your images and COPY them to your PC.  After you confirm the copy was successful, then go back and delete the images on your phone that you no longer need.

It is always better to copy.  If a "MOVE" function is uses and something goes wrong (the power blinks for example), you could loose all or part of the data.

If you need more help you can also do a web search on something like...


The first hit there is from WikiHow.com, which I frequently find useful.

Have fun!

:-)

Tuesday, August 19, 2014

Windows System Image Software... and a bit about Linux Partition Choices

There are times when you want a complete system backup, or a system image, or a clone of your MS Windows System.

A system backup or image is good for recovery from some sort of problem ("disaster") like a "fatal" system crash (from which you cannot recover from otherwise).  A clone can do the same thing, but the clone process is typically used to transfer an existing system to a new HDD.

Creating new partitions on a drive that contains an OS (operating system) can be a risky venture.  If the OS is damaged during the creation of the new partition, you are SOL (....outta luck).  Having a backup can help in recovery.  It is a fairly complex process though, as you also need a bootable device  that will allow you to run the recovery software (since the OS on the HDD is trashed).

Anyway... Here are a few suggestions:

Try this Google Search:
https://www.google.com/#q=free+windows+system+image+software

This Article is a good summary of some excellent choices:
Best Free Drive Cloning Software - Gizmo's Tech Support Alert

Note... Both of the following suggestions will run on Win-XP... which makes it a great "safety choice" when creating a new partition for a Linux installation.

I was tempted to use the Macrium Reflect Free Edition first, but have not yet tested it.  It seems a bit more complicated for what I wanted to do at the time.  Still, I'm betting it is an excellent choice.

AOMEI Backupper
This is the one I choose to try first, and have not been disappointed.  The interface is simple and clean, and the help and tutorials are excellent.  You still need to jump through quite a few hoops to create a bootable device for Full Recovery operations... but for the basics, this looks like a very good choice.

You can also try CloneZilla.

OR:

If you have your Win-XP software disk, you can use it to create a system image via...


If you get an error message (like: ntbackup.exe not found), or cannot otherwise locate the MS Backup utility you can follow these instructions, only if you have the original Win-XP install disk.

:-)

For more information about partitions... especially as related to Linux installations... try starting here:
:-)

Linux Installations

Tips, Notes, Suggestions...

RAM is the biggest factor in deciding which distribution of Linux you want to use.

One really nice thing about Linux, is that if you have and older (slower) PC, you can breathe new life into it by using Linux.  This is especially true if you do most of your PC work on the Internet.  If you have a PC that was intended to run Windows XP (which is dead), you likely have 500-MB to 2-GB RAM in that system.  The basic dividing line on Linux choices is 1-GB RAM.

The big trend right now is "Cloud-Based Applications and Providers".  This is extremely popular because of the flexibility of access, as well as the low (usually zero) maintenance needs by the user.  (The biggest SNAFU for most regular folks is adapting to the changes in the interface, as the Cloud Apps are updated.)

Once you adjust to using Linux (and in most cases the adjustments will be minor) you will find that Linux will do just fine (maybe even better than Windows).  This is especially true once you are inside the Browser.  (Firefox is always my first suggestion, which comes installed with most popular Linux distros).  Even the Office Suites offered are fairly sophisticated, and not all that different than MS Office.

If you need a heavy Duty office suite, try using Open Office.  Otherwise the default one offered with the Linux distro you choose will probably be just fine.

The biggest SNAFU I've encountered with installing Linux is that some WiFi chipsets are not readily supported.  See my previous post here on that. Or if you want a quick fix, try getting a TP-Link TL-WN822N v3.0 USB WiFi Adapter... available on Amazon Prime for <$20.

1+ GB RAM

Linux Mint

This is still my OS of choice for systems with 1+ GB RAM.  Mint is extremely popular now.  How they achieve this is through really good design, and very convenient resources (especially for application installation and maintenance).  The installation program is very robust.

As is often the case right now, during the installation you can choose to install Linux Mint beside Windows (on the same Windows NTFS Partition, or possibly a FAT Partition), or with the creation of a new Linux EXT-type Partition.  The "Beside" option is quicker and easier, and possibly less risky.  Creating a new EXT# partition(s) will be more efficient.

In all cases, the preferred Mount Point for each partition in a Linux installations seems to be the following 3:
  • /
    • This is the best Mount Point option for the OS itself.
  • /home
    • This section is typically used to store user created files.  Having this on a separate partition makes it really easy to update or change the OS (in / ) without affecting your personal data.
  • swap
    • Creating a partition dedicated to swap files is most helpful on Low RAM systems.
    • The general rule is to create a Swap Section that is equal to or greater than the amount of system RAM.  One reference suggests:
      • Swap Partition / Space = RAM (< 8 GB)
      • Swap Partition / Space = 0.5 x RAM (> 8 GB)
    • Choose "Beginning" or "End"?
      • Apparently it does not matter.  For consistency I choose "end" for Swap.
    • The 2.6 Linux Kernel apparently is efficient enough that a separate Swap Partition is not needed.
    • Ideally... You never need the swap space at all, and run everything in RAM that needs to be in RAM....  But when trying to resurrect an older machine, you need to deal with what you got, so Swap Space may be helpful (or needed)..

500 MB RAM


I'm a huge fan of Slacko Puppy Linux... it is a very lean and efficient Linux Distro (distribution).  It comes "out of the box" with everything you need, ready to go, including the Firefox Browser.  It can be made to install to a HDD, but this is not its best application.  It is best run in RAM... or better yet, off  a USB drive.

Lubuntu Linux v14.04 LTS

Available in 32-bit and 64-bit.

This is my current "Lightweight" Linux OS of choice.

System Requirements... Minimum Suggested:

  • CPU = Pentium Class 700 MHz (single core)
  • RAM = 500 MB
  • HDD = 20 GB

YMMV... Lubuntu has been proven to run on less (RAM, etc.).

Special benefits and features of Lubuntu v14:

  • LTS = Long Term Support
    • 3 Years (from July 2014)
  • Firefox Browser is Ready to Go!
  • Improved File Manager.
  • Based on the lightweight LXDE desktop environment.

Like Linux Mint... The default installation has a nice set of applications... plus it is really easy to add and manage applications.  There are thousands to choose from, with most (if not all) being free of cost.

  • Main Menu > System Tools > Lubuntu Software Center

If you are keeping MS Windows, the installation manager works really well to make this happen.  You will get a "Bootloader" menu on system start-up.  The easiest solution is to let it install alongside Windows, but if you are feeling bold you can easily re-partition the drive, creating a Linux style (EXT3 or EXT4) file-system... plus you can create multiple partitions to handle User Files, and a designated Swap Area, as well as the OS itself.

You will not need to configure the bootloader with this installation... the Lubuntu installer does it all for you.

All-in-all this is a truly spectacular OS, which could be installed by just about anyone... and it runs quite well on just 500 MB RAM.  The look and feel of it is similar enough to MS Windows (XP) that most anyone can easily make the transition to it.  What few differences are encountered can usually be discovered through a simple web search.

= = =




Tuesday, August 12, 2014

WiFi Adapters for Linux

Finding WiFi adapters for Linux use, especially on "Lightweight Distros" (w-ref), can be a bit challenging at times.  Various chipsets tend to be more compatible than others.  Some WiFi Adapters (and other similar devices) simply do not exist in the eyes of Linux (I've mostly tested Ubuntu based Distros), while others get immediately recognized.

It can get a bit expensive just trying out different adapters, so doing a bit of homework first can be a good idea.  What seems to mainly define what will be recognized is the "Chipset" (as opposed to the manufacturer).  You can find lists of Linux Friendly Chipsets such as this one from wireless.kernel.org

One example I've had really good experience with is this:

TP-Link TL-WN822N v3.0
At <$20, this compact b-g-n- class 300Mbps USB WiFi Adapter is an excellent performer.  It includes a WPS button, a 1.5M USB cable, and is WPA/WPA2 ready.  I've plugged this into Puppy Linux, Lubuntu, and Linux Mint, and it was immediately recognized... no driver installation needed.
For this device, the:
Chipset  = Realtek RTL8192CU

Another example is:

Etekcity SI-7200ND
Apparently out of production now.  Is similar ti the above TP-Link device, but a bit more bulky, but the larger antenna were supposedly to boost the range.  This apparently uses the Ralink 3072 chipset.

:-)

===

Install Linux Mint - HDD Prep

Well... I finally got around to doing a Full Install of Linux Mint on a PC.  It is remarkably easy... though I did have to look a few things up.  This post is to fill-in the gaps, and remind me of what I did, and where I went to get the answers.

The machine I used was a Notebook PC that had Win-XP on it, which is dead now, so I chose to re-partition the HDD and start from scratch.  It was relatively resource rich (for a hand-me-down / give-away machine), and just begging for an installation such as Linux Mint, which I typically install on machines with 1+ GB of RAM.  (For PC's between 1 GB and 500 MB of RAM, I typically use Puppy Linux.)

The resources were:
  • Dual Core CPU - 32-bit
  • 1.8 GB RAM
  • 250 GB HDD
Also included were the usual bells-and-whistles such as a DVD Drive, LAN Adapter, WiFi Adapter, and even a camera and mic.

I decided to re-partition the HDD first, and ran into a few minor snags that I had to look-up.

I wanted two partitions... one for the OS, and one for Data.  I used ext3 as the formatting option (the default was ext4).  Another installation, on a PC with slimmer resources, went to ext4, and it seems to run OK.  I'd say try it, and if it "breaks", just try a different installation.

This is what I ended up doing to get through the full partition process:
  • 50 GB - Set partition 1, at the beginning, using ( / ) to set the root, for the OS installation.
  • 175 GB - Set partition 2, at the beginning, using ( /home ) for the Data section.
  • 25 GB - Created a Swap ( ) partition.
I have no idea at this time if this is correct, or best, but I know it is good for a 1st try.

Here are a few links that helped me make a few decisions:
Some other links of interest:

After the installation was done, an icon in the (equivalent) Task Bar prompted me to install a large number of updates, which took some time, but went OK.  Some updates failed, but what did finish went well, and after a boot, all was well (the PC ran OK).


:-)

Wednesday, July 9, 2014

Movements to Improve Internet and Phone Privacy

Some phrases to search are:
  • CREDO Action
  • Reset the Net
  • Fight for the Future
Google Search All Three of the Above

= = =

Saturday, May 17, 2014

Arduino - Open-Source Electronics Prototyping Platform - OSEPP

OSEPP 101 - Arduino... an Electronics Prototyping Platform.



"OSEPP is a brand of boards and senors that are manufactured from the same schematic and layout as Arduino. OSEPP also develops its own line of unique kits..."




"Arduino is an open-source electronics prototyping platform based on flexible, easy-to-use hardware and software. It's intended for artists, designers, hobbyists and anyone interested in creating interactive objects or environments."

Community

 Arduino Wiki (Playground) ... a collection of Arduino knowledge, tutorials, and instructions provided directly by Arduino users.

Arduino Multi-Language Forum (it's "Official"!) and stay connected with the Arduino community (through various Social Media, like Google+ and YouTube).

 Arduino Team Blog


This looks like really fun stuff!


:-)

Tuesday, April 22, 2014

Banking Safe With Puppy Linux

OK

We all worry about how safe it is to do Banking and Credit Card operations on-line.  The horror stories are endless, cyber crime and identity theft have been everyday topics for decades now, and the bad guys just get more and more tricky.

What is the solution?

The most obvious one is simply to not use a computer and the Internet to do financial stuff online.

If you want to give it a go though... and are not sure which path to take... try this article:

Banking on a Live CD

That was the first hit I got using this search:
https://www.google.com/search?q=Banking+Safe+With+Puppy+Linux
... try other articles and searches yourself.

The above "Krebs on Security" article does a pretty amazing job of compacting the Linux Live CD process into one relatively short article.  Still, if you need some more background and detail on the whole Linux Boot Disk process, try my: a58tech Linux Section.

Though untested by me at this time, I like the link to the "Free ISO Burner" software for MS Windows.  it looks very compact, and user friendly.  The reviews are mixed at C-Net's Download.com, but it is likely as good an alternative as CDBurnerXP.    I reckon there is something similar for Mac OS - ISO Burning..

The bottom line is that...

For all the security articles I've read so far, the reoccurring theme is that nothing is entirely bulletproof, and it is mostly a matter of numbers.

Since Microsoft products still run on the overwhelming market share of computers world wide, they are the biggest target.  As Linux catches up, will they become a bigger target?  Possibly.  But for now Windows is still the target of choice.

As a quick aside...

You can also Run Linux on a Mac Computer.  Look for a future article on that soon.

:-)