Sunday, December 10, 2017

Slow iPad - System Cracked?

This is a letter I wrote for someone recently.  I am a former PC-Guy, now turned Linux... but occasionally I get called on to help with Apple products (which by-the-way, I believe they are the best designed, if you can afford them, but even Apple is not 100% bulletproof).

You can switch iPad for your OS on most of the searches listed here, and still get the information you need.

Hi,

Before you start... Notice this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=Computer+Hacker+vs+Cracker
In short:  Hackers are the "Good Guys", and Crackers are the "Bad Guys".  These terms have been twisted mostly by bad media reporting in the 90's, and the industry is still trying to correct this.  Most "True Hackers" are still offended by this error.  Even trusted media still gets this wrong (mostly because it is so commonly accepted).

>

I suggest you read this all the way through first, and then decide what to do.

Try and recall if you gave permission to install an App (while traveling), or anytime recently, especially one that was NOT associated with the "Apple Store" online (or any 100% trusted source, which you likely cannot verify).

It is possible your iPad may be infected, but it is extremely unlikely. (ref-1ref-2)

>

The first thing I always suggest when a system is running slow, is to do an ISP "Speed Test".  In order to do a comprehensive test you should know the rated speed of the connection you are using (i.e. the speed being paid for, but if not, that is OK), and (ideally) have that be the only active device on the network, plus not have the device engaged in "high-bandwidth" activities such as music and video streaming, big downloads (or uploads), system updates, etc.

Another "ideal" for the speed test is to do a "Cold Boot" (power the system down completely, wait 5+ seconds, and start it up again).  Some newer systems (Win-10 especially) are not as obvious about a cold boot, but I believe with all Apple products it is pretty straightforward (you will get a "Power Off" message, or something similar).

When in doubt, do a simple "restart".  For instructions Google / search things like:
https://www.google.com/search?q=iPad+Power-Down
https://www.google.com/search?q=iPad+Restart

Actually (especially if you cannot manage all of the above details)... Do a speed test first... reboot and/or restart... then do another speed test (after a clean boot).

Comparing the test results as you go can give a clue.

In most cases the ISP speed will be fine... but not always.

If the ISP (Internet Service Provider) speed test is much lower than you think it should be, then the problem is usually with the "provider" (this typically does not happen very often)....  Call them and report your findings.

If the speed test is fine, and the PC or Tablet is still running slow, then the problem is usually with the system.  90% of the time or more, a reboot will fix the system speed problem.

Note...:  Most "bench technicians" (say in a shop or store) will likely run "performance tests" to determine a systems health.  I have never had access (or tried to use) these programs.  (Remember, a simple restart & update check usually fixes things.)  And these advanced tools are why a shop (or an OEM [Apple] store can be better (in extreme cases).

If your system is still slow after everything above (all variations of restarting & speed testing), then the problem is most likely in the OS (Operating System), or one or more problematic apps / programs, or a combination of the two.

Rule number one here isBe sure the OS and all installed apps are up-to-date.  For an iPad try starting with:
https://www.google.com/search?q=Checking+iPad+System+Updates
I cannot stress the importance of this enough.

If you get everything up-to-date, and the ISP speed tests are OK, and the system is still slow, you are getting closer to a conclusion of "Been Cracked", but not yet.

Another common problem is Age (i.e. What generation is the device?).  If the system is 5+ years old, especially if it was at a low-budget price to begin with (lower than average CPU "clock speeds", and lower than average "RAM" amounts [for that generation device]), then it could be that all the software (the OS and all the software / app update have simply outstripped the hardware.  The hardware simply cannot keep up....  In this case, you just need to go buy a new one.  (I always suggest "average" to a bit "above average" [in terms of hardware resources], to get the best value over the longest reasonable term.)
 ... "Age" is the most common "computer system slowness" problem that I see, everywhere.

If all of the above do not seem to be the problem, then you need to look at getting the system "scanned" for "Malware" (malicious software).

Malware includes: computer viruses, worms, Trojan horses, ransomware, spyware, adware, scareware, etc.

Start with:
https://www.google.com/search?q=iPad+Malware+Scan
... and go from there.

Sticking to Apple sources is a good idea.  Example:
(From that, I suspect it cannot be done.  It is a "feature" [design element] of the device [hardware & software].)

You probably should read this one:

"Jailbreaking refers to the process of removing all restrictions imposed on an iOS device."

Ideally you will be able to find a temporary scanner that you can run through a browser (if it exists, and for iPad it apparently does not).  For a Tablet (or smartphone), you will likely need to install an App.  And for an Apple device, you will almost certainly need to get it from the "Apple Store".  (I'd be extremely cautious about anything not from the Apple Store, especially for this job.)  But apparently even this does not exist for iPad.

If all else fails...

Take it into an Apple Store (with service techs), or a certified Apple repair shop.  (Independent shops can be better sometimes, but you gotta know you can trust them.  Do your homework, or get a good reference.) ... They should be able to advise you properly.

Let me know how it goes.


171210

===

Friday, July 1, 2016

Windows Startup Loop - System Recovery

Had another first the other day (they are almost always "firsts" these days it seems).  Someone came to me with a Win-10 system stuck in a Startup Repair Loop (be sure to check the images in that G-Search).  They claimed that beforehand a supposed "Microsoft Security Essentials" rep. had control of their system and wanted to bill them $200 to $300 for a fixm and a year of support.  I never did resolve that one, nor did I find any indication of infection after running the usual litany of checks.  At first I suspected Ransomware, but the system seemed to be clean.


Fortunately I found nothing wrong, all the data was OK, and the system was returned to normal.

Tracking down the problem and doing all the checks took about 3 hours, and at my usual rate of $60/hr for this kind of work (some places charge double that)... you do the math.  Now they want to come back to have me create a System Image and Recovery Drive... plus install Linux Mint, so they will have a Dual-Boot system, which is a great idea (to choose to boot into Linux or Windows OS [operating system] at the system startup).  That will probably be another 2-3+ hours though... so now you are looking at possibly $360+ for the whole deal.  You can get a new MintBox Mini for less than that.  (See also: Chromebit.)

Like most folks, this person had NO Backups of their Data, let alone a System Recovery Drive, or a System Image.  It is OK to not have all this, as long as you are willing to take the data loss... and possibly need to buy a replacement OS.

There is a LOT to be said about Cloud-Based storage and services.  They at least can keep your data relatively protected.  Any by using services like Google Apps (free or paid), you do not need to maintain or buy any software.  (Most software for systems like Linux Mint are all "free and open source".)

Protect Your System & Your Data

In most cases, to create your System Recovery Drive and System Image, you will want to have the following:
  • 16 GB Flash Drive
    • This will make a boot drive for you to recover with.
    • You may need a 32 GB drive or larger... so you may want to prepare for that.
  • External USB Drive
    • 30+ GB will be needed for the OS and a modest amount of Data.
    • If you are backing up a lot of Music, large Images, and/or Video, you will need a much larger External USB Drive.  Fortunately the prices on these today are pretty reasonable, especially considering the costs if you loose all your data, and have to buy a new machine / OS.
Here are some resources to start with and consider:


As always... the above are a suggested starting point.  feel free to add other keywords to refine your search.

===

Saturday, September 26, 2015

The Historic Apple & Microsoft Deal of 1997


I reckon Bill Gates was smart enough to know to not Kill the Competition, just Dominate them (at the time anyway).  Had Microsoft held onto their $150 Million investment of "non-voting shares" made in 1997, which basically saved Apple Inc. from extinction (they sold-out their stake by 2008)... In 2014 that investment would have translated into a total worth of $21.86 billion.  Not a bad return for that initial $150 million investment made just 17 years earlier.

Apple has made a huge comeback since that 1997 deal.  Continuing their style of unique & innovative design of very solid products.

Since the 2001 release of the Mac OS-X operating system, Apple has released a whole string of extremely popular tech products, including:

  • iPod - 2001
  • Mac Mini - 2005
  • Change-Over to Intel CPU's - 2006
    • Now you can run MS Windows on a Mac!
  • iPhone - 2007
  • iPad - 2010
  • This page at "EverySteveJobsVideo.com" is a synopsis of the business relationship between Steve Jobs & Bill Gates.  It is a relatively short read (with several embedded videos), and if you only read one page linked to in this post, this is probably the one to see.

The Microsoft Deal – Macworld Boston (1997)
  • Start at time index 25:38 to see just the actual announcement.
    • You will probably want to watch it from there to the end.
  • This video shows about 37 minutes of the "Historic Keynote [address where] Steve Jobs announces a partnership with Microsoft and hinted to the Think Different campaign."
    • This video also from "EverySteveJobsVideo.com".
  • August 6, 1997
    • Location: Bayside Expo & Executive Conference Center, Boston
    • Steve was 42 years old.

Aug. 6, 1997: Apple Rescued — by Microsoft

  • Wired.com - 2009-Aug-6
  • A short yet interesting look back... a handy summary.
  • Includes a 12 minute video clip of just the "Meaningful Partners" segment of that 1997 keynote address.

Stop the lies! The day that Microsoft 'saved' Apple

  • ZD-Net - 2010-May-30
  • A relatively short article targeting the "serious urban myth: that Microsoft "saved" Apple in the summer of 1997."
  • Illustrates some of the gains Apple has made since that 1997 deal, including "Apple overtaking Microsoft in market capitalization" a week prior to the article's publication.


What ever became of Microsoft's $150 million investment in Apple?

  • Engadget - 2014-May-20
  • Short and sweet.
  • Theorizes on the gains Microsoft could have made had they held onto their 1997 investment.
= = =

Monday, September 7, 2015

A Few Computer Tech Milestones

A Few Computer Industry Milestones to Consider.

This list is heavily slanted toward Apple products, as they have driven the market in many ways.

Most of the links below go to Wikipedia pages.  A few do not.

The dates given mostly refer the actual market release of the product.


Notes:

Software Advances drive the Hardware Market.

Mac OS and Windows 95 were both huge leaps forward in the GUI OS market, capitalizing on the 32-bit CPU chips (IC) of the time.  These OS releases would also set the stage for the rapid growth of the Personal Computing Industry Boom of the 1990's.

USB... Universal Serial Bus ... Greatly improved connectivity of "Peripheral Devices" such as printers, cameras, keyboards, etc....  Replaces serial and parallel ports.

Google has become a major force in the industry.  Developing both Software and Hardware products in a very innovative fashion.  They are a leader in "Cloud-Based" technologies.

= = =

Sunday, August 2, 2015

Thunderbolt vs. USB 3.0

OK

Check out these articles
For more...

Both are fast, but T-Bolt is basically 2x faster (or better).  This is the clear winner for super-fast Drives and amazing Video Connections, and beats simple Full HD HDMI by a decent margin (though HDMI v2.0 sports a 18 Gbit/s throughput).

USB is more common... and plenty fast in most cases... especially where high portability is needed (as in visiting another site with your data in your pocket).


Thunderbolt

  • Bitrate - Thunderbolt v1
    • 10 Gbit/s per channel (20 Gbit/s in total)
  • Connector... 20-Pin
  • Dual-protocol I/O
  • Designed by: Intel ... 2011
  • Made Popular on Apple / Mac
  • Hot Swap = Yes
  • Daisy Chain... up to 6 devices
  • Signals = Data, Video, Audio

For more on the Thunderbolt in a compact package... check out the Mac Mini.


USB 3.0

  • Connector... 9-Pin
    • Various Connector Types... including:
      • Standard-A
      • Standard-B
      • Mini-A
      • Mini-B
      • Micro-A
      • Micro-B
  • I/O Bus ... Serial
  • Designed by: Intel (and others)
    • Introduced in 1996
  • Popular on the PC and Mac Platforms
  • Hot Swap = Yes
  • Daisy Chain... up to 127 devices
    • Though you may need some power boosters to go that high.
  • Signals = Data, Video, Audio
    • Pointers (Mouse / Trackball)
    • Drives
    • Cameras
    • Printers
    • Audio
    • Network Adapters
    • Game Consoles
    • etc.


= = =

Monday, November 3, 2014

Networking and Wi-Fi - Getting Through the Wall

Introduction

Wired LAN (local area network) systems can seem confusing enough.  Add WiFi (radio broadcast) to your LAN, and things can get even more complicated.

Wired LAN systems are the most reliable, but the most difficult to install in an existing building because of all the holes you need to poke into the walls (etc.) to get all the wires pulled to different locations.

WiFi systems avoid the need to connect everything with wires, and allow you to move about freely within your network broadcast range, but they can be complicated to safely install, and they are susceptible to radio-frequency (RF) interference, which makes them less reliable.

Radio interference occurs when a device in range of your network system is operating at or near the same frequency as your WiFi router band(s).  They have thought this through.  Interference is generally not common.  But many devices that are not primarily designed to emanate radio-frequencies can do so, and in an intermittent fashion, which can cause occasional and random drop-outs in your WiFi Network.  Tracking these problems down can be very difficult.

Good Placement of your WiFi Router can help a lot to prevent the most common forms of signal interference.  Placing it up high on a wall or bookcase for example, as well as away from any metal objects and/or radio frequency producing devices is a really good idea.

There have been volumes of information written about WiFi Network Security, so this is not the place to go into that in depth.  Suffice it to say though, that no matter what kind of (recent) WiFi security protocol you use, there will always be potential for your system to be compromised.  About the only thing you have going for you is the sheer popularity and quantity of WiFi networks.  But the possibility of your WiFi network being cracked is only limited to how much you trust who is in range of your system (your neighbors, who is on the street, etc.).  Public WiFi networks with pass-phrases are only as secure as who is using them, so again, there is a trust issue going on here.  WPA2-PSK and 802.11n are the most common recent security network protocol  tools used today.

The latest (Jan-2014) and greatest WiFi security protocol is 802.11ac, but you will need to replace all your WiFi Network Broadcast devices (routers, repeaters, etc.) to take full advantage of this new protocol.  Using updated adapters would be best too.  These new routers should be backwards compatible with current (b/g/n class) adapters.  A Network Adapter is the equipment used to connect your device (notebook or tablet PC, etc.) to your WiFi broadcast router.

Routers are primarily a sending unit, while Adapters are primarily a receiving unit.  The communication actually goes both ways however.

Following are a few suggestions and tips for using either Wired or WiFi.

Sometimes the best solution can be a combination of the two.

Passing Wires Through a Wall

Here are a few suggested items for making a quick, yet neat, pass-through in a standard wallboard wall.  By using the pop-in box or bracket, it is easy to install a blank cover-plate if the wires are later not needed and removed.

A pop-in box or bracket can be really convenient and easy to install.  Just be sure that you do not damage any existing wiring or plumbing when you cut the hole.

Most of these products can be purchased in quantities from 1 to 10.

The boxes and cover-plates come in 1-gang and 2-gang options.  For example, a single-gang box is like a single wall switch, a double-gang box is like a double wall switch.

Sometimes you can get far better WiFi coverage if you pass a wire through a wall into another room or hallway to get closer to a more central (and higher) location, that could also be more free of possible RF interference.

Low Voltage Mounting Bracket
These make for an easy access to get through walls, between two rooms or into a hallway for example.  A cable pass plate can be used, there are may choices.  A blank cover-plate can be used as well.  these come in a variety of styles.  Some additional searching is easy to do.

Recessed Cable Wall Plate
This clever example can be mounted either way.  There are many other options.

Here is a site dedicated to various home connectivity products:
My Cable Mart
That link is a list of various cover-plates and brackets, to give you an idea of what is available.

Choose a WiFi Router

The best way to choose a router is to read some reviews, or choose what is popular at on-line shopping sites.

Extending your WiFi Network range can be fairly simple to do.  Some terms you may run into for that are:

A WiFi range extender and/or repeater that also includes a network bridge is a device that will extend your current WiFi network range of reception, plus give you a LAN port to plug a cable into.  So in a way, the best of both worlds.  (You are still mostly dependent on the WiFi signal however.)

The most important part of a WiFi system is the antenna.  A good antenna system will help a lot with both reliability and range.
What is the best WiFi antenna for me?
That is a really comprehensive article on the subject.  Some additional searching may be helpful.

Router

Here is an example of a popular 300 Mbps single-band (2.4 GHz) router:
TP-LINK TL-WR841N ... mfg. page
This device includes:

  • Wireless network speeds up to 300 Mbps (mega-bits per second)
    • This provides adequate data transfer to watch streaming HD movies for example, from a site like Netflix... or to make VoIP (telephone) calls over the Internet (including webcam calls like Skype).
  • WPA2-PSK Security
    • This is the most common of the current security protocols, and in general is still very effective.
  • Four 10/100 Auto-Sensing LAN Ports
    • For easy wired networking.
  • One WAN Port
    • For your Internet connectivity.  (This port connects to the incoming signal from your ISP or Internet Service Provider).
  • Wi-Fi On/Off Button
    • This feature is really handy if you want to temporarily turn off your WiFi.
  • Power On/Off Button
    • This can make it a lot easier to easily re-boot the router, it there is a connectivity problem, etc.
  • WPS Connect Button
    • WPS, "WiFi Protected Setup", is a convenient connectivity feature that allows the connection of devices to your network by pressing a button, as opposed to entering in a pass-phrase.


Range Extender

Here is a relatively simple device that will allow you to easily extend your network broadcast range:
TP-LINK TL-WA850RE ... mfg. page
Wi-Fi Range Extender, Repeater
This device includes:

  • 300 Mbps Range Extender (2.4 GHz band).
    • Suitable for "High-Bandwidth" applications (video calling, HD Streaming, etc.).
  • Compatible with other 802.11n/g/b wireless devices.
    • Applies to most currently used devices.
  • WPA2-PSK security encryption is supported.
    • Good security protocols.
  • WPS Connectivity.
    • Easy push-button connectivity.
  • RJ-45 Ethernet Cable Jack (see note below).
    • Allows this device to be used as an Ethernet Bridge.
  • Smart Signal Indicator Light.
    • A signal strength indicator, to assist in locating the device, and monitoring performance.


Dual-Band vs. Single-Band

My experience so far with Dual-Band Routers is that they are not worth the trouble.  Most folks are confused by the whole idea, and though the 5 GHz band is supposed to be faster and have greater range, I've not really see that (especially on the extended range).  I suppose it depends on the router though.  Especially in terms of broadcast power for that particular device.

However... A major benefit of a simultaneous Dual-Band system (which is the common configuration on the market today) is the separation of the bands, and data transfer.  Basically, you are getting two WiFi routers in one, which is the biggest benefit of this system.

There are many (mostly older) devices that only operate in the (slower) 2.4 GHz range.  (Higher Frequencies are capable of carrying more information, faster.)  The 5 GHz range is better suited for watching HD Movies (like Netflix), Audio+Video Calls (like Skype), Gaming, and large data transfers.

As far as I know, there is no way to use a Concurrent WiFi Adapter (they don't exist?), and receive both bands at the same time on a device (like a PC).  i.e. On the receiving end you get one or the other, not both.  So those big numbers you see in ads for Mbps are the combined output of the router, which is not a bad thing.

If you want to get higher throughput (above 300 Mbps) in either band however, be prepared to get your wallet out, these routers don't come real cheap!

The speed vs band designation is generally identified as follows:

  • N150 = 150 Mbps (typically 2.4 GHz)
  • N300 = 300 Mbps (typically 2.4 GHz)
  • N600 = 300 + 300 Mbps (2.4 GHz / 5 GHz respectively)
  • N900 = 450 + 450 Mbps (2.4 GHz / 5 GHz respectively)
  • N1200 = 300 + 900 Mbps (2.4 GHz / 5 GHz respectively)
Other variations can apply.  Be sure to read the specifications to be sure that you understand what it is that you are actually supposed to be getting for each band.

This support article by Netgear does a really good job answering the question:
What does the N150/N300/N600/N750/N900 mean?
Of course they use their products to illustrate the differences, but that is OK.  Personally, I find their products to generally be a very good choice.

Notes:

Ethernet Cable Connector

RJ-45 vs. 8P8C
8P8C (8 position 8 contact) is technically the correct term for the Ethernet Cable Connector that is most commonly used today.  Use of the term "RJ-45 Ethernet Cable" is so pervasive in the industry however that most folks (including manufacturers) will use it in discussions, and even in specification lists!  If you want to truly test someone's knowledge about networking however, you can try and throw this term / difference out there.

Setting the DHCP Server

The DHCP Server setting should be turned on if you only have one router, or on the very 1st router (connected by the WAN Port to your Internet Source) in a series of routers.  In other-words, if you connect a series of routers together to expand your network (such as adding WiFi points via Wired LAN or Booster connections), the 1st router is a DHCP Server, and the rest of them are not.  (Disable the DHCP function of the following router(s) and set them to obtain an IP address dynamically.)

Additional Resources

Google: WiFi Range Extender

Google: Add a Wireless Access Point

Wi-Fi Booster Review - Top 10 Reviews
Some notable examples... mostly dual-band:
  • ZyXEL WAP3205 V2 - $40
    • Mfg. Page
    • It is not clear if this is a dual-band system (probably not), but they make it sound like it could be very easy to set up (though actual user reviews are contrary.)
    • It is a "best value" deal.
  • Netgear AC1200 EX6200 - $110

    • Uses the newest 802.11ac wireless networking standard.

    • Blazing Speed (up to 1200 Mbps total output).
      • Only with full dual-band connectivity, otherwise they are all the same, around 300 Mbps on the 2.4 GHz band.
    • Dual-Band (2.4 / 5 GHz)
    • Excellent additional features (such as USB 3.0 and 5 Gigabit LAN Ports).
  • Also worth a look:
  • Netgear AC750 EX6100 - $90
  • Belkin F9K1106 - $70

===

Wednesday, September 3, 2014

Delete Unwanted Autofill Data - Web Browser

"How do I delete Unwanted Auto-Fill Information from the input box in my Web Browser?"

For example: You mistype your User ID when logging into your e-mail account on-line.  This is a pretty common issue.  Everyone does it at some point.

A web search will usually get you to the information you need.  Here are a few examples:


For Firefox See:


For the Google Chrome Browser See:


Another way to do this, and give your (MS Windows) system a bit of a boost is to run a utility like CCleaner.  You will find information about that on my "a58Tech" Web, under Maintenance and Utility Software.

:-)